What should I buy?  This is the question that all R/C heli fliers ask themselves when they are starting out.  There is a huge amount of advice out there if you are willing to listen to it and it can be very confusing especially when the advice is conflicting.  However, one thing is for certain - radio controlled helicopters are expensive.  The price of the kit is misleading...you have been warned!

Note:  One thing it's worth saying at the beginning is that whatever you decide to buy, it's worth checking out the prices of the second-hand article on eBay before you commit your hard-earned cash to anything.  This is not because I recommend you buy anything second-hand - far from it - but it will give you a good idea of what you are likely to get back if you decide to sell anything, e.g. if you decide you want to upgrade your transmitter.

The Helicopter
The first choice you have to make is whether you want a glow-powered model or electric.  Glow engines give you duration and (to a certain extent) more excitement.  In some ways they are also safer since they cannot accidentally be turned onto full power at the flick of a switch, e.g. when it is sitting in the back of your car within the reach of little hands!  On the other hand, modern electric models are simpler, cleaner, powerful and so quiet that you can fly them without annoying anyone.  I'll deal with glow models first...

Glow

I fly and thoroughly recommend the Thunder Tiger 'Raptor'.  Now available in 'Titan' form, this is currently the world's most popular machine and is certainly a reliable, capable and cost-effective piece of equipment.  Even in its most basic form, the 30-sized variant, it is capable of reasonable 3D moves and the 50-sized version can be used for just about any 3D you can think of (see this video of Jason Krause flying one as an example).  It's also an excellent helicopter to learn with, being stable and easy to set up.  Buying a 60- or even 90-sized version may be tempting but bear in mind the additional cost of repair that goes with the larger sizes.

For those of you with an unlimited budget, probably the best glow-powered 3D model you can buy at the moment is the 90-sized Synergy available from either Skyline Models or Midland Helicopters amongst others.  However, buying one of these as a beginner would be a bit like learning to drive in a Ferarri - possible - but a little 'over the top'!  They are also more difficult to set up and fix so be sure you know what you're getting into before buying one.

Electric

There are many good medium-sized electrics on the market (like Mikado Logo range of helis, the Century Swift, and the Align T-Rex 600) but these are mostly aimed at the serious flier.  The most popular electric helicopters are micros such as the diminutive Align T-Rex 450 and its derivatives.  The Protech Zoom used to be number two but now there seem to be so many other small electrics on the market it's difficult to know which is more popular. However, don't let their size fool you - in many respects micros are more difficult to fly than the larger models and repairs can be quite costly.  Whatever electric model you choose, try to get one with variable pitch main and tail rotor blades which is much easier (than fixed pitch) and more enjoyable to fly.  It will also allow you to do aerobatics if you have a 'computer' radio transmitter.

Warning:  Be very wary of buying cheap electric helicopters (lots of these are on the market at the moment) and ones that are sold with Mode 1 transmitters (see 'Radio Equipment' below).  These look like a bargain but learning on a Mode 1 transmitter could prove to be a real headache later on.

Hybrid

A wonderfully elegant solution for those of you who can't decide between glow and electric is the Henseleit 3D MP.  This model has a removable motor section which can be fitted with either an electric motor or a 50-sized glow engine.  A very well-built machine!

Trainers

For training purposes, I recommend the the Hirobo XRB Lama.  Available in both tethered and un-tethered forms, it is simple and easy to fly.

Engine
You really can't go very wrong with OS.  They are an excellent manufacturer with a reputation to match.

The Radio Equipment

Transmitter and Receiver

In simple terms, the most favoured makes of radio control equipment for helicopters are Futaba and JR.  Your dealer will be able to find the one to suit you and your budget.  Both of these manufacturers also make Gyros and other electronic accessories which are all highly rated.  Avoid cheap-looking equipment - external appearances often reflect the quality of what is inside.

Basic transmitters, such as the four-channel sets that you might use for a model aeroplane, are not usually suited to radio control helicopters.  These almost always require the more complicated 'computer' transmitters with at least 6 channels and which have functions such as mixing throttle and pitch settings together onto one stick.  However, some models such as the Ikarus Piccolo can be flown with a basic set.  Talk to your dealer about which type is best for you.  If you want my advice, go for the Futaba Field Force 9 or the JR PCM9X.  If you are on a limited budget, try the excellent Sanwa RD6000 (Sanwa are known as Airtronics in the US).  Be aware that if you stick with the sport, you will outgrow the cheaper transmitters.

Whatever type of radio you buy, you should consider buying a transmitter and receiver combination that use PCM (Pulse Code Modulation).  This system offers a good deal of security over and above the alternative Pulse Position Modulation (PPM).  For safety reasons I strongly recommend you opt for the PCM option.

I advise you to make sure your transmitter is a 'Mode 2' model as opposed to a 'Mode 1' type.  If you don't know the difference, click here.  Mode 2 is widely accepted as the standard these days and if you get a Mode 1 type then you will may find it hard to find anyone to test your model since they will probably have learnt on a Mode 2 transmitter.  If in doubt, ask the locals!

Servos, Gyros and Engine Governors

Most radio transmitters are sold with a set of standard servos (e.g. Futaba transmitters are often sold with a set of S148's) but I strongly advise you to consider exchanging these for upgraded ones.  Standard servos, although excellent value, are not really suitable for any application on a helicopter except the throttle control.  As stated in the BMFA Handbook "Do not use standard inexpensive servos in situations where flight loads are likely to be very high...".  A good servo for the collective and cyclic controls on a glow-powered heli is the Futaba S9202.  For the tail, you might like to have something less powerful but faster.  The throttle servo can be a simple, low cost (but ball-raced) type like the S3001.

In my opinion, the best all-round gyro for the money is the Futaba GY-401.  This is a heading-hold model which is very reliable, small and will last you well into 3D but at over £100 it is quite expensive.  Only when you start to try extreme 3D manoeuvres will you be able to gain any benefit from a top-of-the-range model like the GY-611.  If you want something cheaper, try the CSM HLG200.  At around £60, this has the heading hold feature and will last you into basic aerobatics.

Engine governors automatically maintain a constant head speed (rotor speed).  They can be likened to 'cruise control' that is fitted to some cars.  In the days before governors became available maintaining a constant head speed could only be achieved with the settings in the transmitter but it is almost impossible to achieve a perfect set-up using this method.  Therefore, most advanced pilots now use an on-board engine governor to do the job for them.  However, they are not essential and I recommend that beginners don't fit them because they can mask engine problems.  If you decide to fit one, I recommend the Model Avionics Throttle Jockey although Futaba's more expensive GV-1 is also very good.

Ancillaries
Don't be fooled by the price of a new helicopter kit.  Starting at around £230 they seem temptingly inexpensive.  However, the cost of all the things you need can really add up.  Make sure your local dealer has supplied you with everything you will require to fly.  A typical shopping list might look something like this:

Helicopter, Engine, Exhaust Pipe, Fuel Filter, Header Tank, Fuel Filler Set, 6mm Starter Drive, Remote Glow Plug Connector, Transmitter, Receiver, Receiver Battery Pack, Main Servos, Tail Servo, On-Board Voltage Monitor, Switch Harness, Gyro, Starter Motor, Starter Battery, Flight Box, Fuel, Digital NiCad Battery Charger, Special Tools, etc, etc.

There are many very good 'package deals' around but don't be surprised if it all eventually adds up to more than £1,000!  See the Buyer's Guide below for the awful truth...

Simulators
If you don't have a radio controlled helicopter, computer flight simulators provide a very effective and cheap way to learn to fly.  If you already have a model, its a great way to learn without the risk of an expensive crash!  

• Expensive Options

There are several good simulators on the market...CSM are still selling a fairly old-fashioned one - its graphics are quite poor but this has the benefit that it consequently doesn't need a very powerful machine or graphics card - this makes it a good choice for some older laptops.  Another well-known make is Tru-Flite which has better graphics although you do need a more powerful machine to run it.

The most popular simulators on the market in the UK at the moment are probably Reflex XTR,  Realflight G3.  Of these two I prefer Reflex XTR for several reasons.  First of all, Reflex is a fairly good simulator and is easy to set up.  Its downside is that some of the models that are provided with the package are not very realistic however this is not such a big problem as you can download new ones that have been created by enthusiasts at http://www.rc-sim.de.  One aspect of Reflex XTR that I particularly like is the indoor models which are perhaps the most realistic of any that I have yet tried.  I am less enthusiastic about Realflight G3 for several reasons.  It is over complicated, they charge heavily for add-ons and worst of all, the manufacturers made owners of their previous versions (G2) pay full price for an upgrade to G3.  On the upside, Realflight is distributed by Ripmax in the UK and so it is easily available.

Other popular simulators include various Ikarus simultors such as EasyFly and Aerofly.

Note:  Remember to make sure that the simulator you buy is compatible with both your computer and transmitter.

• Cheaper Options

Perhaps the cheapest option is FMS (Flying Model Simulator) which is available on the Internet for free!  You can download the latest version here (unless you're adventurous I would always select their 'Recommended Option' rather than their 'Alpha' test versions).  

If you want to use FMS, the only thing you'll have to pay for is the interface cable to connect the PC to the transmitter.  You can make this yourself but if you're not much of an electronics expert then you can buy the one made by RC-Electronics.  You can decide which of their interfaces to buy based on your PC.  Your options are:

• FMS (£16.50) - this is for the older style 9-pin serial ports

• JSIM (£26.50) - this is for computers with a 15-pin game port

• USB (£30.50) - this is for more modern computers with a USB interface

Note - these prices were correct at the time of writing

Click here to order one.

If you have one of the older Ripmax serial interfaces I have written some basic setup instructions for FMS and the Ripmax interface here.

For more about freeware, see here.

Eyewear
Staring up into the sky can get tiring if you don't have good sunglasses.  I can't pretend to be an expert in this area but after a certain amount of experience, I would recommend a high quality wrap-around type.  Perhaps the best of these is the Oakley 'M' Frame with 'Black Iridium' lenses (which admit only 9% of light) in the 'Heater' shape.  It's no surprise to me that many top pilots use this configuration...

Another excellent make is Model Glasses.  At less than £30 they aren't very expensive but they have to be tried to be believed - in my experience they have the weird effect of making your eyesight seem better which I understand is something to do with way they improve the contrast.  Try them!

Should I buy Second-Hand?
With safety being such an important factor in the hobby, I would be very wary of buying second-hand equipment especially the helicopter itself.  If you are driven to this extreme by budget considerations, check to see if its history can be ascertained.  Has the model been used at a local club?  Do the club members know how reliable the machine is and how well is was assembled?  If you must buy second-hand, ask for a demonstration before you buy.  The chances are that you will have no way of knowing how well the helicopter was put together so, having bought the model, take it apart and re-build it yourself.  As an instructor I am often given second-hand models to check out and I am often amazed at what I find.  As an example, I was once given a partially assembled helicopter whose history I did not know and therefore decided to disassemble it as a precaution.  Lucky I did!  Many of the fasteners were not done up tightly and retaining compound had hardly been used at all.  The watchword must therefore be 'Caution!'.  Be very careful about buying from someone you don't know.

Buyer's Guide
I have been asked so many times for advice on what people should buy that I have added this Buyer's Guide to help beginners.  The 'Cheap' set of prices represents what I would recommend as an absolute minimum requirement.  You can do it with less money but beware of using unsafe options like standard servos on the cyclic and collective - the BMFA recommends that you don't do this and so do I.  The 'Medium' option is a sensible compromise and the 'Luxury' option is for single guys with lots of disposable income only!  (Having said that, if you really get into the hobby, you'll probably end up getting the best gear eventually anyway!)

Please note that there is no 'right' list of things to buy.  This is just what I recommend to people but the final choice is up to you.  Remember, safety is always the first consideration!

N/R = Not required - either you don't need it or it comes with another option in the list

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